Ananda Nadanam Aadinan

Travel, travel, it goes on, without a stop, without an aim. When we reach a destination, we realize that there is something more somewhere else, As soon as we reach there, we think about the next one. It goes on like that. It is intoxicating, going after unseen places, sights; new friends, experience; new information, all are thrilling. The knowledge and wisdom that we get from travelling cannot be obtained from anywhere else. To the unseen places, unseen friends, the ride continues…to ages.

I started on my trip to Chidambaram, home to Annamalai University, a place that carries the memories of the Dravidian culture, the place where Pancha Bhoothanathan rules. Chidambaram is a mine of sights. I will reveal a secret now. Actually, my plan was not to go to Chidambaram. I wanted to get an old bullock cart just to polish and keep in front of my house as a showpiece. I told about this to my friend. He advised me that in our place, the cart is very costly and it would be good if I buy one from Dharmapuram in Pollachi. He also told me that he has an acquaintance there and there is every change of getting a bullock cart at a cheap rate. Whatever may come, we decided to go to Dharmapuram and the next morning itself, we left for the place. I always make it a point to start early in the morning wherever I go because of the simple reason that I love enjoying the morning sights and freshness. From Kochi via Pollachi to Dharmapuram, the distance is 240 km. It was the break of day and the roads were empty, so my ‘chariot’ rushed through the roads.

We reached Pollachi by 7.00. My friend passed me the information that Pollachi has the largest cattle market in South India. Even I know that and I have always wanted to get a view of this market whenever I passed through this place, but never got a chance. Today, it is a market day, and I am decided on visiting it today itself. It is on Tuesdays and Thursdays that cattle are brought to the Pollachi Market. We had a black tea and then walked to the market. I was amazed to see the market. I couldn’t make out whether the number of cattle or men is more in the market. The place was clamorous with people, cattle, vendors in kiosks, and the cattle traders. I asked the driver of a small truck and he let me crawl up on top of it. Now I can see the whole marketplace. The cattle market in Pollachi is the largest among the 64 cattle markets in Tamil Nadu. In just 2 days in a week, business of more than 3 crores takes place here. I took some snaps and videos and came back.We got into our vehicle and started for Dharmapuram.

We reached Pollachi by 7.00. My friend passed me the information that Pollachi has the largest cattle market in South India. Even I know that and I have always wanted to get a view of this market whenever I passed through this place, but never got a chance. Today, it is a market day, and I am decided on visiting it today itself. It is on Tuesdays and Thursdays that cattle are brought to the Pollachi Market. We had a black tea and then walked to the market. I was amazed to see the market. I couldn’t make out whether the number of cattle or men is more in the market. The place was clamorous with people, cattle, vendors in kiosks, and the cattle traders. I asked the driver of a small truck and he let me crawl up on top of it. Now I can see the whole marketplace. The cattle market in Pollachi is the largest among the 64 cattle markets in Tamil Nadu. In just 2 days in a week, business of more than 3 crores takes place here. I took some snaps and videos and came back.We got into our vehicle and started for Dharmapuram.

In Dharmapuram, we drove here and there till noon, but couldn’t find the place where we could get the bullock cart, or even food. Sometime later, we found the place and saw some carts, but we were shocked to hear the prices. We felt like it was as costly as a BMW. The only benefit of going there was that we could enjoy some village scenery. We reached back at Dharmapuram at 3.00 and had food from a hotel. I searched in the Google to see if there is something to see in this place. Nothing was there except for one place which I have always wanted to see. It was just a ‘short distance’ from there – around 318 km. I told my friend about my desire and he was ready to go with me. We decided to travel to escape from the disappointment of not getting the cart. Thus, we started our journey to Chidambaram. Our ‘chariot’ started to roll and my companion agreed to be the ‘charioteer.’ I took pictures and videos of whatever came across. Our destination is Chidambaram Nataraja Temple and if possible, to see other places of Chidambaram. It is a town that is important industrially.

This town which is situated in the Cuddalore District is also known for the Nataraja Temple. There won’t be anybody who has not heard about Chidambaram, the Temple City. This place is connected with the memories of Dravidian culture and is a storehouse of views. Chidambaram was the capital of Chola Dynasty. The Nataraja Temple was built in the 10th century. Lord Shiva is the deity here and he assumes cosmic form which is one among the Pancha Bhoota. We reached Chidambaram by 8.30 pm. We were so tired that we hurried to have some food and then got a room near the temple to sleep.I woke up early the next morning. After the daily routine, we went out. Every day, Chidambaram wakes up to the Hindu devotional hymns and the ringing sound of bells. In the streets, we could see the routine sights of galloping of milkmen, girls selling flowers walking with a modest sway of hips, children crying loud from the verandahs of shops, the aroma of coffee coming out of the hotels, everywhere there is the typical Tamil sights and smell. The temple complex with 4 Rajagopurams or entrance towers covers an area of 50 acres of land. The Chidambaram Nataraja Temple is one of the rare temples where Shaiva and Vaishnava goddesses are installed in one place.

The temple consists of 5 circumambulatory temples. The temple flag could be seen flying on the south gopuram. Chidambaram is an everlasting wonder displaying devotion to Shiva as well as great architectural expertise.We walked to the temple. The walls of the gopuram stood high fully adorned with admirable carvings of dance mudras (gestures) from Natya Shastra along with images of legendary characters. The doors of the entrance towers were also decorated with carvings on either side. The gopuram on the east was built during the reign of the Chola kings and have carvings exhibiting the 108 karanas (key transitions) described in Natya Shastra. I strolled slowly towards the sanctum. The deity here is Nataraja Shiva. Inside the sanctum, there was the image of the shining Nataraja Murthy under the golden roof performing Ananda Nadanam (dance) with Shivakama Sundari. The deity in Chidambaram is Lord Nataraja, the cosmic dancer, who represents Om, the Pranava. There were huge numbers of devotees in front of the sanctum as well as on the steps on the top. The sounds produced by the huge golden-colored bells rung by the workers in the temple transformed into the sound of Omkara and bounced onto the stone walls and echoed.

Patanjali form of rituals is practiced here. There are 6 poojas (prayer rituals) performed daily. This temple represents the sky element signifying that the human mind should be as clear as the sky. The well-known Chidambara Rahasya (secret) is near Lord Nataraja and is a curtained space. I felt curious to know what is there inside the curtain. I asked a person in a low voice and he told me to wait. After sometime, the temple priest removed the curtain and I could see only a big garland made of Bael leaves. I didn’t understand anything. The person to whom I enquired about this earlier told me that emptiness is what is garlanded here. The concept behind this is that the omnipresent god cannot be contained in a mere idol. This is called Chidambara Rahasya. I stood staring at the emptiness, happy to know that there is at least one temple which admits that god is formless. There are several shrines, deities, and circumambulatory temples in the Nataraja Temple. There are beautiful carvings on the pillars of Nritta Sabha which is built in the shape of a chariot. Unlike the other temples, in this temple, the idol of Nataraja faces the south and that is because, Shiva has defeated death. When we bow before Nataraja standing on the steps in front of the sanctum, we can also pray to the idol of Maha Vishnu which is on the left top. Able to bow before Shiva and Maha Vishnu at the same time in one place is a specialty offered by this temple. I saw the Shivaganga sacred pool when we walked out. In front of this is the Shivakama Sundari Temple. There were flowers and lamps in front of Shivakama Sundari, the goddess, and the entire atmosphere was filled with the scent of camphor. One more time, I bowed and got out and walked back to my room. I packed my bag. The time was 9.00. We had coffee. Our next destination is Pichavaram Mangrove Forests the description of which is given in the next part…